The Missions of San Antonio

Remember The Alamo! That's what everyone kept saying to me when I told them that I was going to San Antonio, Texas. So I obviously knew it was a thing (and a thing to check off my bucket list), but what I didn't know was that there are a whole bunch of churches from this time period with a similar heritage that are worthy of checking out along with The Alamo (and dare I say, even better than?).

'What are the Spanish Missions of San Antonio?' I hear you ask.

That's an oddly specific question, considering I didn't actually tell you what they were called yet. And why are you interrupting me, I was about to tell you about them.

The Spanish Missions were a series of five colonial era walled estates set up in what is now downtown San Antonio following the river to the southern edge of the city. They were established in the 18th century as an extension of the Spanish Government and Catholic Church to convert the local indigenous tribes to Catholicism, teach them the Spanish ways, and help them. 

Today 4 of the 5 missions still serve as active churches and are run by the Archdiocese of San Antonio and the San Antonio Missions National Historic Park.

The Alamo

Set up like a museum and proper historic attraction, there are videos to watch, text panels to read, and history actors to interact with all to learn about the bloodied and varied past of this Spanish Church. Although I definitely found it interesting, but I didn't so much feel emotionally connected to this history. It might just be that I didn't know enough about it to feel that connection, much like I would expect a Texan to have to same reaction to visiting the Plains of Abraham in Quebec City; interesting history, but difficult to connect with the significance of it all.

Mission Conception

It is possible to walk or bike the 10 miles of trial that mostly follows the San Antonio River from The Alamo to Mission Espada, but when I'm being a tourist, sometimes the fastest route is the best route. Borrowing Selena's car for the day, I was able to visit all 4 remaining churches and not get sunburned or tired.

Mission Conception, established in 1731, was my favourite of the missions--the interior still has beautiful remains of fresco paintings and is an impressive looking structure.

Mission Jose

Mission Jose was the second mission built, in 1720, after The Alamo. This mission became known as a major social and cultural centre. Some of the compound walls are still standing and on the day of my visit there was a funeral taking place in the church and so I was unable to see the interior. The main visitor centre is located at this mission with a chockablock full gift shop.

Mission San Juan

Quite honestly, Mission San Juan (1731) was the most boring because I could see all I could access from the parking lot. On a bluer skied day, I could have taken some nice pictures of the white stucco building, but that's about it.

Mission Espada

The southern most mission of the five missions and my other favourite is this tiny gem, Mission Espada (1731). That exposed stone and brick! That lush moss! I mean, just look at that doorway!

Although the historical perspective of these missions is outdated, I just like looking at old buildings in original settings. If you're looking for something more to do than just The Alamo, the other missions are certainly worth a gander.

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What I learned in Texas

I still have posts from Newfoundland that I want to do, but writing about Texas last week has got me on a kick. I really did enjoy my time there, but I do feel a bit ripped off weather wise. It was overcast and cool most days. This Canadian was not prepared for the single digit temps so far south. Not prepared mentally or vestment-ly.

I learned that Texas isn’t always hot and this lead me to take note of other things I learned in Texas. 

1.Longhorns’ horns are longer than I had imagined 

Thanks to the rodeo being in town, I got to meet a real-live longhorn cattle. I was massively impressed by the length of the horns and equals parts not understanding how they function with such large things jutting from their heads.

2. I don’t hate country music as much as I thought I did

Part of the rodeo was a concert of Brett Eldredge. I have never heard of him or his music before, but I did find myself clapping along. I particularly like his one about whiskey. True story.

3. Friends are important 

Bathroom selfie in the wine bar Selena took me to right after I landed.

Now this one I did know, but it’s good to be reminded of this every once and awhile. My 2018 is including more self-care and as I’m figuring out what that means exactly to me, I know that carving out time to spend with friends is good for my soul and I need more of it.

4. Cactuses are super cool

I’ve seen them on tv before, but never really in actual life. Like in the wild. Even on my trip to Las Vegas, I didn’t come across too many cactus in the city, but in Texas they were all over. Each time I saw one, I was delighted (clapping and giggling like a child!). They are sooooo weird! How are they a thing?

I’m realizing now that I did see some in the desert in Bolivia, I remember a particular moment when Eimear touched one thinking it was a normal soft plant and we laughed at her silliness. Cactus are prickly! (Yes, I said cactuses)

5. Sweet tea is the nectar of the gods

Seriously, no wonder childhood obesity is such a problem, I would be a fat kid too if I had sweet tea growing up. How is this not a thing in Canada!! 
Hot Tip: Don’t want it too sweet? Mix unsweeted tea with sweet tea to taste. Damn! So good!

6. Texas has a distinct gastronomy

I didn’t particularly think of Texas having a distinct food pallet. I had assumed portion sizes were going to be giant because America, and I wasn’t wrong there, however I was still introduced to some great food. Texas BBQ is now my most favourite thing. 

Barbecued meat? Good. 

Beans? Gooooood. 

Creamed corn? Gooooooooooood. 

We need more Texas BBQs in Ontario.  I also had actual Texas Tex-Mex which included breakfast tacos, tamales, and other delicious Mexican inspired foods.

Also did you know that The Phoenix Saloon in New Braunfels is the home of chili powder?!

7. Everything is soooooo spread out

One of the best reasons about visiting places where friends live, is having access to some home conveniences, like a car. No need to rent, take a bus, or waste money on cabs. 

San Antonio is VERY spread out. A car is a must! A big thank you to Selena for letting me borrow her car!!

Have you ever gone somewhere with preconceived ideas and were immediately humbled by how much you really didn't know?

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6 Things To Do In and Around San Antonio, Tx

I have itchy feet. Always in the spring my feet begin to get really itchy and it’s not due to allergies. It’s a classic symptom of Travel Bug. Other symptoms include compulsively Googling flights and hotels in exotic destinations, big sighs when you hear about someone else’s upcoming trip, and twitching thumbs as you like every travel photo on Instagram.  To sometimes help with the travel bug, short of booking a trip, I look back on some of my previous trips that I’ve been fortunate enough to have taken.

The last time I had a bad case of the travel bug, I was able to take advantage of some Boxing Day seat sales and began planning my trip to San Antonio, Texas in February to visit my dear friend Selena.

I’ve been to Texas once before as a very young child, the last impression I had of the place was that the grass was really spiky as I tottered around and a dog ate my Barbie, obviously it was a traumatic trip.

I knew going back was going to be entirely different experience, but I was surprised by how much I actually liked the Lone Star State. I think I had a particular image (read stereotype) in mind of what I would encounter while in San Antonio and not only did it not exist it was even better than what I had anticipated. That said, I’m still slightly devastated by the lack of cowboy hats I encountered on a daily basis.

These are the things I most liked about my trip to San Antonio

Pearl Weekend Market

This place reminds me of one of my favourite places in Toronto, The Distillery District, except this place is much cooler and has a weekend market. The vendors are from within a 150 mile radius and sell local produce and artisan foods. There are also some trendy restaurants, retails shops and a fabulous looking hotel, all located within walking distance to the San Antonio River. We spent a good chunk of our day here, checking out all the stalls, popping into the stores, eating market food for breakfast and people watching.

Riverwalk

In the heart of San Antonio is The River Walk, located one story below street level along the banks of the San Antonio River. This area reminded me of the canal system in East London, but on steroids. It is certainly a tourist destination and very cool to spend time along, but be aware that it is more of a tourist trap than an authentic experience. That said, I had a great time doing a bit of bar hopping and walking the length of the "River Walk" area, watching the barges filled with people. It was Mardi Gras when I was there and a big party atmosphere, but I was told that this is a normal vibe for the walk.

San Antonio Rodeo

"Let's rodeo, San Antonio!" When Selena told me she got us tickets to the rodeo I honestly didn't know how I felt about it. I'm all for doing new things, but I wondered if I was going to have issues with watching. It was the same trepidation I felt when Eimear and I planned to see the Cholitas wrestling in Bolivia. Turns out I loved this too. It was exciting to watch, no animals appeared to be hurt or stressed and by the end I wasn't sure if I was cheering for the people or the animals. Mutton Bustin' broke my heart though, every single 3-4 year old cried when the fell off the sheep.

Mission Churches

First thing people asked when I told them I was going to San Antonio, was if I was going to go see The Alamo. The answer was obvious, I wouldn't go all that way and not go to the Alamo. But did you know there are actually five mission churches from the same time period and some in better condition. I spent an afternoon exploring each of them. It's possible to walk the 14.5 km Mission Trail from The Alamo to Mission Espada. I was short on time and had the use of a car. It made the trek much more enjoyable especially considering for one reason or another I could only get inside two of the missions.

New Braunfels

New Braunfels is a city northeast of downtown San Antonio, and has an interesting history. In 1845 Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels, Germany established the town named after his home town, and organzied hundreds of Germans to immigrate to Texas. To this day the area maintains its German heritage, even hosting Wurstfest to honour the humble sausage. The popularity of this festival has certainly grown since its inception in 1961. 

I was already enamoured with this little city and then Selena brought me to Krause's Biergarten and Cafe and then I was in love. I felt like I was back in Europe and could see this place being a fun time on a warmer day. They even had many of my new obsession on tap, Austin Eastcider. OH WHY can't I get it in Ontario?!

Gruene Hall

Gruene is a historic district now part of New Braunfels and dependant on the tourist economy, but it's worth a visit. It's tiny but it packs a lot in there. We managed to only visit the General Store, Gruene Hall, Mozie's and The Grapevine. Had we had more time, I could have spent the afternoon at Gruene Hall listening to the music and dining at the old gristmill turned into a restaurant with a view of the river. 

Do you get itchy travel feet? What do you do to scratch that itch?

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