To Market, To Market: Billingsgate Fish Market

Today I'm trying something a little different for my post about this famous East London institution, Billingsgate Fish Market. In this post I've used Cockney Rhyming Slag, historically created from this part of London. Try to guess what it means or visit here (or here) and look it up!

I've saved the best for last, or at least my most favourite thing I did during my epic trip to England all the way back in January; Billingsgate Market. 

To visit the Lillian Gish market you must get up before dawn, it opens for business at 4 AM Tuesdays to Saturdays running into the late hour of 9:30 AM.

When I lived in East London, I was literally just up the field of wheat, but never found it lemon squeesy to convince myself to actually get up that Liz Hurley and scapa flow!

On the short ball of chalk to the market we encountered no other pedestrians along the way at this pre-dawn hour, and very few vehicles on the A12 except for the occasional night Uncle Gus. As we approached the market building, however, there was distinct activity happening as people entered the building toting large, empty suitcases and others exiting with boxes and large bags filled with seafood purchases. Clearly these were people making commercial purchases and wondered if we'd be getting in the way or be unwelcome and stick out like a rotten Lillian Gish. Passing through the main doors, my eyes had to adjust to the bright, florescent lighting contrasting the inky blue morning sky outside.

We were immediately greeted by the sellers at the first stall with a hearty "Awright, luv?" the warming rhetorical question of every friendly Londoner I've ever met. Everything was just fine.

We made our way up and down each wet aisle, impressed with the many varieties of the seafood for sale and the fact that there was no Aunt Nell. I mean, I know fresh Lillian's shouldn't Aunt Nell at all, but I thought a room with that much Lillian's about, there was surely going to be a bit of an odor. Nope. Not so.

We watched the sellers, adjusting their product as things sold, informing little, old women there for a weekly shop how to cook a particular item, and saw fathers and young sons working and laughing together in their daily routine of selling fish.

We finally decided on some fresh Scottish Salmon and some bagged, frozen seafood, now we were Hank Marvin!

To the cafe for a nice Ruby Lee and a kipper breakfast. I don't know what it was, but it was the best Ruby I've ever had! Perfect milk to tea ratio, the mug was exactly right, it was the ideal temperature and poured by a friendly cockney woman from behind the counter.

This is definitely something off the beaten path for the everyday tourist and although I no longer can boast a London address as home, I did feel I was witnessing a very London practice; the hard working-class men of East London doing what they do and have been doing for years and sometimes generations.

If you made to the end of this post with cockney rhyming slag and all, I commend you! I hope you got a kick out of it and enjoyed trying to guess what the heck I was saying. I promise I won't be doing that again. 

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Unexpected Places: Why I Fell in Love with E14, London

When I was searching for a place to live in London, I looked all over, you name it, I probably saw a flat there. It didn't really matter the neighbourhood, but I did still have a wish list that I was desperately seeking. At first anyway.

As time wore on, I had very much overstayed my super generous welcome with some extraordinarily kind, dear friends, and that wish list became almost none existent. I now searched for anything in zone 2 that wouldn't have me to dipping into my savings each month for the pleasure of living in the shoe box sized room. That was the criteria. Cheap and hopefully cheerful.

Finally, I found my home. The flatmates were nice, the place was clean, my room was big with a large mirrored wardrobe (better than I could have hoped for!). The area was Langdon Park in East London (never heard of it? It's east of the cool East London bits you're thinking of) a few minutes walk from both the DLR and Bromley-by-Bow tube stations.

At first, I wasn't a huge fan of the area, although it was zone 2 (only just) it was very suburban, meaning not much going on, on the surface, but as I began to spend time in and explored the area, I discovered some really great things about my little bit of London. I discussed some of the things I loved to do in my Staycationing in East End post a while back, but here are a few more of my favourite things from the E14.

Chrisp Street Market

Based on the many markets I've visited, it's no secret that I'm a fan of a market stall, especially one with a little history. Originally, the area was a Victorian Street Market, then in 1951 Chrisp Street Market became the first pedestrianized shopping area of its kind in Britain. 

Today, the food is fresh and cheap. Want some garlic? Here's 20 cloves for £1, Bananas? Here's a dozen for £2! The local shops that surround the market are diverse and interesting; my favourite bit being the Idea Store located near All Saints DLR. I could pick up my next tube reading material and dinner fixings all in one place.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park 

In Stratford, roughly a 20 minute walk  from my door (maybe less now as the redevelopment is completed) exists beautiful green walks, a North American-styled shopping mall and great restaurants. The former home of the 2012 Summer Olympics has been reinvented and continuing to be used and enjoyed by the public. Although I never got a chance to go up the Orbit or have a swim in the London Aquatics Centre I liked that they were in my 'neighbourhood'.

House Mill

I love a bit of history me, and the House Mill along the River Lea had just that. Around the corner from my local Tescos is a grade 1 listed 18th century tidal mill (the largest left in the world) located on a pre-Doomsday site (1086AD). It produced grain for flour and a gin distillery and only ceased existing as a working mill in 1941 when the area was bombed during WWII. 

Today, it has a lovely little cobble stoned cafe along the River Lea, has facility hire, and the occasional special cultural event. They currently have a campaign to bring the machinery back to working order, redevelop its education programs and to produce hydroelectricity for sustainability. BIG things happening here!

Canals 

The canals were my most favourite thing about East London. Full stop. The fact that I had canal access close to my house tickled me. The first time I came across my canal (yes, MY canal) I gasped and was giddy with excitement.

I went for a run along it every chance I got, heading up toward Stratford or down to Limehouse. On real adventurous days I would make it all the way up to Victoria Park via the canal path.

Walking along the canals took me out of the rush of the city. I had a little piece of nature beside me and I could watch the birds, fish, and other urban wildlife doing their thing and listen to the waters movement. Not to mention the houseboats. Life on a houseboat fascinates me! I loved peaking in through the little windows and greeting people on board including the furry, four legged ones.

Galvanisers Union Pub

When I first moved to Langdon Park, all the pubs in my immediate neighbourhood were OMP and not to be ventured into alone. The better ones were just a bit to far out of my reach to be considered my local. This remained one of my grievances with the area until The Galvanisers Union opened in the spring of 2014 and it immediately become my local.

I could often be found there enjoying quiz night, a cheeky pint after a night out before heading home, a Sunday roast, or just a plain old, big night close to home. It was designed shabby chic and kinda hipster, but I didn't hold that against it. The gastro-pub food was good and they always had a yummy scrumpy on tap.

Moving back to Canada, I miss my local most of all.

Langdon Park, a.k.a. my London home was an unexpected place for me. I had visions of what living in London would look like and this place was not it! Despite that, I grew fond of and eventually even loved my little home in Poplar, Tower Hamlets, East London.

At the beginning of each month, I like to take part in the monthly travel link up hosted on the incredible blogs by Angie, Jessi, Emma,  and this month's special host Carolann. You can join in too by leaving a comment below, checking out other posts on the link up, or adding your own post to the widget now until June 7th.

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Wednesday Wanderings

Street art along the Canal in Hackney, London

Fun travels!

To Market, To Market: Brick Lane Market

I'm not nearly cool enough to spend large quantities of time in Shoreditch. I did live in East London, but it was east of the cool east bits. That said, I can't say no to a market, cool or uncool I'm going to be there trying all the foods, touching all the things, smelling all the airs, and walking all the lanes. I most often found myself at Spitalfields, with its different stalls each day of the week culminating to the main event on Sunday. Just a hipsters throw away is Brick Lane Market and the Sunday (Up) Market  in the old Truman Brewery, also occurring on Sundays. This place is full of eye candy; from the crafts for sale, the food stalls, and even the punters. And no matter what's on offer at a market, I will spend a few bob on food and drink. I figure, I can't afford to buy something pretty and frivolous, but a girl's got to eat, right?

On this particular day I was hung-to-the-high-over and instead of opting for something good and dirty (The Poutinerie was sadly not trading on this day), I went the opposite direction and got myself some Fresh Rolls, a California Hand Roll, and some REAL lemon-aid (smoothly style). The freshness made me feel like I was cleansing my body. It thanked me with no repeated visits--if you know what I mean.

Once recovered significantly, I could lift my head and take in my uber cool surroundings. If you don't know it yet, Brick Lane (East London in general) is the best place to check out the street art scene. We wandered the streets, back alleys, and lanes finding surprising pieces tucked away and up high playing the game of "Spot the Street Art". 

My favourite of course was Sell Out's paper butterflies and yes I totally took one as a souvenir. Street art I can take home with me, I'm down.

Grab a cool date and head to Brick Lane whether for the market experience or just to explore the street art, it's an exciting and healing afternoon in London! 

ps. There are street art tours that you can go on, read about Selena's experience doing one back in August. Great photos.

What's your favourite street art?

(is it still cool to say cool?)