Visiting the Home of the Pirate Queen on Clare Island, Ireland

Living in England for a spell has meant that I've been able to visit Ireland a few times. It's a beautiful country filled with lovely people (and some of my most favourite people). Although I've enjoyed it each time, I never ventured too far away from Dublin and County Cavan. 

So this past April on my trip to Ireland, I wanted to see something different, get a little further away from my typical fair. I was staying with my Irish bestie and selfishly left the decision of where we were to go entirely up to her. All I said was that I wanted to see the coast.

She chose well that Irish bestie of mine. We did indeed go to the coast. We went all the way to the west coast to the very lovely town of Westport, to dip our toes in the Atlantic Ocean. We spent a few days in County Mayo which included a wonderful day trip to the rugged, rolling hills of Clare Island. 

Currently home to 160 people, Clare Island is the largest of 365 islands located in Clew Bay. There is a school, a church, a corner store, a community centre with a pub, a tourist info centre, a few bed and breakfasts, a restaurant and sheep. Lots of sheep. 

We took the first ferry over in the morning and the last ferry out that afternoon, and being as it was off season, there weren't too many options either way. Along with a couple construction workers with materials and groceries for the locals, Eimear, myself and one other tourist were the only visitors to the island on this day. Be sure to check out the website for ferry times so you don't miss it.

Clare Island is the legendary home of the Pirate Queen Grace O'Malley (Grainne Mhaol), a 16th century lord in the west of Ireland. Her castle (tower house) is situated by Clare Island Harbour and was a stronghold controlling the waters of Clew Bay. In the 1820s the castle was converted into a police barracks.

Pirate Queen Grace O'Malley's Tower House

One of the points of attraction on the island is The Church of the Sacred Heart and the medieval Abbey. The Abbey was built in the 12th century and medieval wall paintings are still visible within the Abbey walls. If you want to check them out, it's free to access, just pop into the convenience store up the road and ask for the key. (Photography is discouraged).

We had planned ahead and brought packed lunches with us. We hiked up to the old lighthouse which has been converted into luxury accommodation and no longer open to the general public. I would love to be able to stay here, it has such incredible vistas of the bay, instead we had to settle with perching near the craggy cliffs for our alfresco lunch. One day...

Old potato ridges or 'lazy beds'

After our day of hiking around the island, we waled back to the harbour and made a dash for the community centre where we each got a pot of tea to warm up from the blustering wind. It was the same people from the boat ride over that morning inside the pub.

There was a bit of a hubbub at the community centre as they were preparing for a evening of theatre. A large room was set up with a sea of chairs facing a stage at the other end. The stage was set with an interior scene; fireplace, arm chairs and a coffee table. Later that evening the island people were gathering to watch this play being preformed by the community theatre. Eimear told me this is a typical Irish thing to do in small towns.

It was an easy going day of sightseeing around this small island. Had we been spending the night there, we certainly would have attempted hiking up Knockmore Mountain and renting some bikes. It did slightly remind me of my time on Isla Del Sol, island life is island life no matter where you are. People are just trying to crack on with their lives and I love having moment to peek into it as I wander through their space.

Lastly, please take a second to think of the sheep. They are not indigenous to the island, they had to all be brought over on a boat. Each one of them. This mental image amuses me greatly.

What do you think of Clare Island? Would you want to visit? Have you been to any of the other Irish islands? 

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